Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion
Published to accompany the exhibition Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion by the Westminster Menswear Archive, this visually striking catalogue showcases over 120 garments from the exhibition. Each item is beautifully captured in full-colour images, offering readers a unique insight into the evolving relationship between sportswear and fashion.​ The catalogue features work by various designers, including Kim Jones, Aitor Throup, Aries, Palace, Paul Smith, Vetements, Supreme, Bikkembergs, and many others.
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Over the past century, sportswear has transformed from purely functional attire into an everyday staple for billions of people worldwide. Umbro, founded in 1924, has played a pivotal role in this transformation. While collaborations between sportswear brands and fashion designers are common today, Umbro's 2002 partnership with Paul Smith was one of the earliest. Since then, Umbro has collaborated with over 60 designers and brands, such as Kim Jones, Virgil Abloh, Supreme, and Vetements.
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The catalogue is organised into two timelines: 1924–2002 and 2002–2024. The first traces Umbro’s rise from a small business in a Mobberley pub to a global sportswear icon, while the second chronicles the rise of drop culture and Umbro’s many designer collaborations.
The second half of the catalogue is divided into five sections: Manchester, England, Tailored, Replica , and Diamond.
England focuses on the evolution of the England football shirt, featuring Kim Jones’ Tudor rose design, Christopher Raeburn’s reworking of historic kits, and Peter Saville’s modern reinterpretation of the St George’s cross, symbolising a more inclusive England.
Diamond traces the evolution of Umbro’s iconic diamond logo, from its early use inside garments to its prominent display on the outside, reflecting the shift in branding trends across sportswear and fashion.
Replica explores how sportswear, unlike fashion, serves as a uniform, uniting teams and fans through design, colour, and graphics. The use of template designs has maintained a strong visual identity while allowing room for innovation.
Manchester delves into Umbro’s origins, coinciding with the completion of Manchester City’s Maine Road stadium in 1923, and the growing popularity of football among the working class. It explores how Umbro combined textiles, sport, and style to build a successful brand.
Tailored examines how Umbro has crafted sportswear to enhance athletic performance over the past century. It highlights six iconic Umbro garments selected by Aitor Throup for his 2011 Archive Research Project and how they have been reimagined by fashion designers.
Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion
by Andrew Groves and Danielle Sprecher
Softcover | 200 pages | 21 x 29.7cm | Released 15 April 2024.
Published by Westminster Menswear Archive